How to Grow Amaryllis Bulbs

 

Amaryllis plants are popular flowering bulbs that are grown indoors during the winter months. Actually their spectacular, trumpet-shaped blooms can be eight to ten inches across. The flower colors are orange, red, salmon, pink, white, and bicolors. The varieties available are single-flowering, double flowering, and miniature amaryllis varieties. About 2 to 6 flowers (the average is 4) are produced on each flower stalk. The flowers of amaryllis look much like lilies. Amaryllis plant belongs to the family of Amaryllidaceae. It belong to the genus Hippeastrum. The Amaryllis plants are native to the tropical and subtropical areas of the Americas. Actually both the Amaryllis bulb and the plant are poisonous.

Furthermore, Amaryllis bulbs are very easy to force indoors. The Amaryllis bulbs potted in early November should be in bloom by the end of December. Actually the amaryllis bulbs can be purchased pre-planted in pots or un-potted. If you are purchasing amaryllis, make sure you select the large solid bulbs that show no sign of shriveling or decay. The largest amaryllis bulb often produces two flower stalks. If you want to plant the Amaryllis bulbs select a pot that is approximately one to two inches wider than the diameter of the bulb. The container for planting the bulb may be clay, ceramic, or plastic, make sure it have drainage holes in the bottom. Make sure you plant the Amaryllis bulb in good, well-drained potting soil. You can add a little amount of potting soil in the bottom of the pot.

Below is the basic information about Amaryllis plant;

The botanical name:   The botanical name is Hippeastrum.

The common name:    The common name is Amaryllis.

The plant type:   The plant is a perennial bulb.

The mature size: The mature size is about 1 to 2 feet tall and 9- to 12-inch spread.

The plant sun exposure: Amaryllis need full sun to part shade.

The soil type: Amaryllis plant does well in rich, well-drained soil (when grown outdoors); rich potting mix (when grown indoors)

The Soil pH: The soil pH should be between 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)

The flower color: The flower colors are pink, red, white with spots and bands.

USDA hardiness zones: USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10.

The native area: Amaryllis is native to  Central and South America. 

Amaryllis varieties

There are a lot of Amaryllis varieties. The following are the varieties of Amaryllis plant;

-         Amaryllis Samba variety: The Amaryllis Samba variety has large red ruffled blooms with white markings.

-         Amaryllis Apple Blossom variety: The Amaryllis Apple Blossom variety has blooms that is mix with pink and white, with green throats.

-         Amaryllis 'Faro' variety: The Amaryllis 'Faro' variety has delicate flowers in pale salmon and white. Actually the blooms are really smaller and more delicate than most varieties.

-         Amaryllis summertime variety: The Amaryllis summertime variety has large seven inch blooms in a unique watermelon pink to dark rose hue, with also a greenish centers.  

-         Amaryllis 'Matterhorn' variety: This particular variety is a good choice for a pure white amaryllis. The throats of this variety are yellow-green.   

How to grow Amaryllis plant

Start by filling a five to seven inch pot with a good-quality and well-draining potting soil, and then plant the amaryllis bulb, make sure the top one-third is exposed when you fill in the rest of the pot with potting oil. The amaryllis bulbs should be planted ten to twelve weeks before you want them to bloom.

Make sure you place a bamboo stalk alongside the amaryllis bulb. The amaryllis plant flowers can really get top-heavy and inserting the stake now will really help you to avoid damaging the amaryllis bulb and roots later.

Make sure you water the plant well and also place the pot in bright indirect light and make sure you keep the soil moist but not wet. Within a few weeks a thick flower stalk will shoot up. Actually the flat leaves will follow as the flower stalk matures. Make sure you always turn the pot every few days so that the flower stalk will get uniform exposure on all sides and then grow straight.

How to force an existing amaryllis plant into holiday bloom

To actually force a potted amaryllis plant to bloom for the winter holidays you need to cut back the flower stalk after blooming stops, however allow the foliage to continue growing. You can place the amaryllis plant outdoors for summer in partial shade if you want. Make sure you keep them watered but not wet. 

You can stop feeding in August. When it is time to bring the amaryllis plants indoors in either September or October, make sure you move the amaryllis plant to a cool (about 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), dry spot and stop watering the amaryllis plant. The Amaryllis leaves will already be dying back. If you actually want the amaryllis plant to bloom at a specific time, like during Thanksgiving or Christmas, you can count backward to about ten to twelve weeks to determine when to stop watering the plant.

The lack of leaves and water will really induce the amaryllis plant to send out another flower stalk. You can start watering the amaryllis plant at this time and move the amaryllis plant to a warm, sunny spot. The leaves will appear in a while followed by blooms. When the plant flowers fade, then start the process over. 

How to Allow Potted Plants to Re-bloom Naturally

If you actually want your potted amaryllis to re-bloom naturally just cut off the flower stalk after blooming ceases, but allows the foliage to continue to grow as long as it can. Keep the amaryllis plant in bright light, indoors or outdoors. Make sure you keep the amaryllis plant watered so the soil is moist, however not wet.

You can stop feeding the plant in August. You can bring the amaryllis plant indoors before a frost hits it and then place the pot in a cool spot in indirect, bright light. The amaryllis plant leaves will start to yellow and drop around December. Make sure you keep watering as usual and the new flower stalks will appear in a month or two. You can resume feeding at this time and then move the amaryllis plant to a warm, sunny spot. The amaryllis plant Leaves will appear shortly, followed by blooms.  

When the amaryllis plant flowers fade, you can start the process all over. Actually allowing the amaryllis plant to bloom naturally in this way will result in larger plants and flowers.

Growing Amaryllis As A Garden Plant

Amaryllis bulb can be planted in the garden in zones 8 to 10. If you live in a frost-free area, you can plant the amaryllis bulbs with their necks at, or slightly above, ground level. But if you live in an area where frost is possible you can set the amaryllis bulbs with five to six inches of soil above them, followed by five to six inches of mulch. Make sure you water thoroughly after planting, after then water only when the top two inches of soil is dry.

Once the leaves appear, you can feed the plant with a balanced fertilizer once each month until April. Garden amaryllis plant normally bloom in March, April, and May. Once flowering is complete, you can remove the flower stalks, on the other hand leave the foliage to continue growing. If any of the plant leaves turn yellow, just cut them off.

From the period of June to September water the amaryllis plants only during dry periods. In fall you can apply a layer of winter mulch if your area will see winter frost. The amaryllis plants usually go dormant over winter.

Light requirement

Like I said earlier amaryllis plant grows well in full sun to part shade conditions. If grown outdoors, bright shade is the best environment for the plant. If they are grown as potted plants indoors, the amaryllis plant prefers morning sun but bright shade in the afternoon.

Soil requirement

To grow amaryllis bulbs outdoors, grow the plant in a well-drained, fertile soil. If you want to grow potted amaryllis bulbs, make sure you use a good-quality, well-draining potting soil.

Water requirement

Throughout the growing and flowering period, make you water the amaryllis plant whenever the top 2 inches of soil become dry. The amaryllis plant actually requires a dry rest period immediately after flowering in order to reset the bulbs for future blooms. Forcing the amaryllis plant into seasonal bloom really requires careful manipulation of the watering schedule.

Fertilizer requirement

During the growth period you can feed the amaryllis plant with a half-strength water-soluble fertilizer every 2 to 3 weeks. After flowering you can withhold feeding to induce the dormancy needed to reset the amaryllis bulbs.

Pruning Amaryllis plant

If the flowers fade, you can cut the flower stalk back to just above the bulb. Make sure you keep watering the amaryllis plant until it goes dormant in the fall. You can also move the amaryllis plant outdoors for the summer, by placing the plant in a part-shade location.  

Disease Control in Amaryllis Plant

Amaryllis plants also face some disease challenges. The following are some of the disease that attack Amaryllis plants.

-         Amaryllis red blotch:

Symptoms: The amaryllis flower stalks are affected resulting in their being distorted and stunted. The amaryllis affected flower stalks will grow at an angle rather than the normal erect manner. A white to brownish-gray mycelium will develop in the center of the cankers at the later stages of the infection. You can apply foliar fungicides.

-         Amaryllis Bulb Rot:

The bulb rots is caused by fungi. Make sure you discard bulbs showing signs of infection to prevent contamination of the beds. You can also sterilize the soil with chemicals or with steam.

-         Amaryllis Mosaic Virus:

Symptoms: The infected amaryllis plant will be stunted and they will have yellow mottled leaves. Actually there is no chemical control and once the amaryllis plant becomes infected the plant will remain that way throughout its life. Make sure you destroy infected plants.

-         Amaryllis Southern Blight:

Symptoms: What you will observe is a white fungal growth that will appear at the ground line and it will infect the plant at that point. Make sure you avoid the accumulation of plant residue around the plant base. Also a drench with a soil fungicide is generally enough to correct the problem.